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Whether you’ve just purchased your first
bird, or if you’ve been raising birds for many years, much of the
information on this sheet may be new to you. In fact, some or all of it
may be at odds with things you’ve heard from pet store employees, or
other bird fanciers. Please take a few minutes to read through this
handout and use the information in it to help keep your birds
doing their very best. If you have any questions please feel free to
discuss them with your veterinarian.
General Care:
Psitticine Birds (hook billed birds)
originate in tropical or sub tropical environments. The tropics tend to
be much more humid than our environment in Southern California and the
temperature does not vary nearly as much throughout the day. As such,
it is important that we always keep our birds in an environment that is
at least 70 to 75 degrees. This is particularly important when the
change in temperature within the day exceeds 15 to 20 degrees (ex. 60
degrees in the night and 90 in the day). We recommend the use of a
radiator type space heater to keep the bird room comfortable year round.
These heaters are thermostatically controlled and will turn off if they
fall over thus reducing the risk of fire.
Housing:
Most often people purchase cages that are too small for their birds to
be comfortable in. Remember these animals are supposed to have the whole
sky to play in. Try to get the largest cage that will fit comfortably in
your home so that your pet can get plenty of exercise.
Be sure the cage is not painted with
lead based paint (some antique cages or those from Mexico may have this
problem).
You should have at least 2; preferably 3
different diameter perches in the cage to help prevent foot infections.
Do not use sandpaper covered perches as they tend to irritate the feet
and some birds will eat the sandpaper and become obstructed.
Food dishes:
You should have 3 different dishes in the cage. One for water, one for
dry seeds and pellets and a third for fresh food. All dishes should be
cleaned daily and disinfected twice weekly using a solution of one ounce
liquid bleach to 1 quart of warm water. Soak the dishes in the solution
for 5 minutes and then rinse thoroughly.
Toys:
Birds are very intelligent creatures and need things in the cage to keep
them occupied. You should place a number of different toys in the cage
making sure that they are appropriate for your size of bird. Be sure to
avoid anything with sharp edges or things that can shred to strings
which may get stuck around a limb or wing.
Observing your bird:
It is important for you to get used to watching your bird and handling
them daily to help detect signs of illness at their earliest, most
treatable stages. Healthy birds should be alert, active and interactive
when they are awake. If they are fluffed up in the day time or sleeping
most of the day they are probably cold, sick or both!
You should feel the breast muscles
regularly. They should be rounded and full; jutting out in a convex
manner from the chest. If they are convex, your bird is malnourished
and probably sick.
Nutrition:
Malnutrition is the MOST important
factor in the development of illness in pet birds. Most bird owners are
misinformed as to the nutritional needs of their feathered friends and
despite their best intentions and efforts; they continue to feed their
birds totally unbalanced diets.
Common Diet and Feeding Practices:
Most bird owners feed their birds a diet
comprised primarily of seed mixes. Unfortunately, in almost all
instances a seed based diet is lacking in several essential nutrients
including vitamins (especially vitamin A and D), minerals (especially
unbalanced ratios of calcium to phosphorous), and proteins. Even the
best seed diet, which may be billed as a complete diet, is only complete
if the bird eats all of the components of the diet. Most bird owners
feed their pets on a free choice basis, leaving a mixture of food
available throughout the day. Unfortunately, even if the mixture offers
a balanced diet, birds to not have the instinct to select a balanced
diet from a mixture of feeds. In fact, most birds tend to develop a
preference for a few of the items in the mix and eat them to the
exclusion of all other foods. This singular preference invariably leads
to malnutrition and secondary disease.
Balanced Diet and Proper Feeding
Practices:
In order to ensure your bird’s good
health, it is critical to provide the proper diet for them. The diet
must have the proper combinations of carbohydrates, protein, fats,
fiber, vitamins and minerals. This diet can be provided through a
combination of fresh foods and a balanced commercial diet.
Commercial Diets:
Recently, commercial bird foods, which
are nutritionally balanced, have become available in a pellet form,
similar to the balanced diets available for dogs and cats. These pellets
have a uniform consistency and a guaranteed analysis to make certain
that every bite provides appropriate nutrients to your bird. Birds;
being creatures of habit, do not convert to eating pellets readily.
Various nutritional aides and techniques have been developed to assist
in the conversion from a primarily seed diet to a complete pelleted feed
(see additional handout “converting birds from a seed based to a
pelleted feed). Often the conversion process can take weeks and even
months of patient, consistent efforts on the part of the owner. The
rewards for your diligent efforts will be a well nourished, thriving
companion!
Fresh Foods:
In the wild, Psittacine (hook-billed)
birds eat a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, insects, and seeds. It
is important to give your bird approximately 20-30% of his total diet in
the form of fresh food. Not all fresh food is good for your bird. The
following precautions should be followed:
-
Feed only fresh, or fresh frozen
produce to your bird.
-
Never leave the produce out during
the heat of the day, as harmful organisms may grow on the food.
-
Be
certain that all produce is thoroughly washed (to remove any
fertilizer or insecticides which can be very toxic to birds) prior
to feeding them to your birds.
-
Limit
the amount of watery fruits (i.e. melons, grapes etc), and high
water content vegetables (i.e. celery, and iceberg lettuce) as these
foods may lead to indigestion and diarrhea. Moreover, this type
of food is very limited in nutritional value.
Fresh foods should be a mixture of the
following:
-
Protein sources: boiled egg (with
the shell), hard cheese, meats (chicken or turkey) or fish, beans
(lima, kidney, red, white, canallini etc), bean sprouts, alfafa
sprouts, dark leafy greens (spinach, kale, dark lettuces parsley)
-
Carbohydrates: whole grain breads,
pasta, potatoes, rice, millet, quinoa
-
Vegetables:Broccoli,
canots, spinach, kale, parsley, corn romaine lettuce, green beans,
tomatoes, bell peppers, beans and bean sprouts etc (avoid avocado
and onions)
Fruits: Raisins, banana, apples etc. Do
not feed Avocados! Stay away from watery fruits like melons
Seed Mixes:
Seed mixes vary in content and quality.
When selecting a seed mix, consider the following:
-
You should purchase a seed mix at a
pet store that specializes in birds. They should be able to help you
select a good mix for your particular bird. The
turnover of food in these stores is typically faster than other
sources (i.e. supermarkets, drug stores) and therefore the mixtures
should be fresh.
-
Do not get a mix that is
predominantly sunflower seeds. Theses seeds are very fattening, and
unbalanced for your pet, yet many birds will become “addicted” to
them and refuse the other seeds in the mix.
-
Check the mix for any foul odors,
which may reflect spoilage. Refuse any mix that smells bad.
-
There should be a minimum of peanuts
in the mix for the same reason above.
Nutrient Supplements:
Vitamins:
Even with the best of diets, most birds
become vitamin deficient. It is advisable to add a vitamin supplement to
the water or sprinkled on the food daily. The water dish MUST be
thoroughly cleaned daily, and disinfected with dilute clorox (1 ounce
chlorox to 1 quart of water), or lysol at least once weekly to prevent
growth of dangerous organisms.
Mineral Supplements:
Birds use a lot of calcium in the
production of feathers, bone and eggs (females, of course). The Calcium
to Phosphorus ratio (which must be balanced to promote proper growth) is
completely wrong in most seeds. Therefore, a mineral source is necessary
for all birds. The op~ons to use include:
-
Cuttle Bones, Mineral Blocks,
-
Oyster Shells, Commercial
supplements.
The important thing is that the birds
must actually use the supplement. If you find that your bird will not
touch the cuttle bone or block, then you should scrape a bit of the
block onto the food every day.
Feather Conditioners:
If a
balanced diet is being fed,
there should be minimal need for feather supplements. During the molting
season increased calcium may be required in the form of cuttle bones,
mineral blocks or oyster shells to aid in the formation of new feathers.
Veterinary Care:
We recommend bringing your bird to the
veterinarian at least once a year. During that time, the veterinarian
will perform a comprehensive physical examination. Generally, it is
advisable to do a number of lab tests each year to help us determine the
health of your pet. These might include blood chemistry and complete
blood tests, culture and sensitivity, fecal exams, tests for infectious
agents etc. Your veterinarian will let you know which tests would be
most appropriate based on the age, and condition of your pet.
Birds do their best in the wild to hide
their illnesses. By the time you see them fluffed up or sitting on the
bottom of the cage, they are already very sick and should be brought
into the veterinarian immediately.
These guidelines are quite general but
they should work well for most of our winged friends. If you have more
questions on this or any other aspect of your pet’s health care, please
do not hesitate to discuss it in depth with our veterinarian. |